The Spanish Civil War

Sunday promised to be a great day in Madrid as I had two activities in mind. The first was a three hour walking tour of the city that concentrated on a fascinating and gruesome subject, the 1936-39 Spanish Civil War.

This conflict is often referred to as the opening ideological and military salvos of World War II. It was here that both Hitler and Stalin started testing each other's military might. Germany aided General Franco's rebellious Nationalist side while the USSR helped the duly elected Republicans who were running the country at the time of the outbreak of hostilities. This tour was scheduled to start at 11:00 a.m. in Plaza Mayor.

The second landmark event, the main reason to spend the weekend in Madrid before arriving in Thun, Switzerland on Tuesday, was a journey to venerable Estadio Santiago Bernabéu to watch a Spanish La Liga soccer game with home team Real Madrid taking on a Levante squad, based in Valencia, at 9:30 p.m.

More about the game in my next blogpost.

I was up way too early as I am still fighting jet lag and my biological clock continues to be way out of whack, so I opted for wee stretch of the legs before hitting the Civil War tour.

That's 23º F. at 9:00 a.m.

How cold will it be at 9:30 p.m. tonight for the game?

BRRRRR!

Hostal Las Fuentes

World's Smallest Elevator

My walk took me near several more outstanding examples of Spanish architecture like these that follow.

Maybe not this one

Nebraska?

Salon La Mallorquina

I mentioned this great pastry shop, located at Puerta del Sol, in Friday's post. I've tried to get in for two days now but it was wall-to-wall with customers each time that I tried.

Not on Sunday morning.

So I swooped in to have two of their signature rosquillas cookies. One was a tonta meaning plain while the other one was a lista signifying that it was iced. The lista was covered with a rich lemon frosting.

YUM!

On the left, Yemas

I wasn't done yet as I saw these yemas delights that are a staple in Ávila, the city that I did not get a chance to visit yesterday.

They look like hard boiled egg yolks, which I abhor. Yemas is Spanish for egg yolks.

The candy I liked.

Both of them.

Plaza Mayor's Sunday Morning

Stamp and Coin Collector's Market

I collect neither BUT . . .

They set up shop underneath the arcades all around the Plaza. I was able to buy several inexpensive and different Spanish stamps celebrating Camino de Santiago Holy Years in 1965, 1971, 1982 and 2010. A Holy Year is any year that the Feast of St. James falls on a Sunday. It was a Holy Year when I made my pilgrimmage in 2010.

I also bought a not so inexpensive Spanish special edition 10 Euros coin that commemorated the 2010 Año Jacobeo as well.

Good times indeed!

King Phillip III's Statue

in the middle of Plaza Mayor

It was he who ordered the construction of Plaza Mayor in 1619.

Locks like these with intials mean love

After being placed in spots like this one on Plaza Mayor with the initials of the two partners, the lovers throw away the key to symbolize their unbreakable love for each other.

Hey, it is St. Valentine's Day on Tuesday.

Colorful Plaza Mayor Frescoes

A relief of the Spanish Inquistion

Around Plaza Mayor there are several light posts with places to sit at their bases like this one. They show reliefs of events that have taken place at Plaza Mayor over the centuries.

Besides the brutal Inquistion, the Plaza has seen its share of bullfights, fires and royal pageantry also depicted in similar reliefs.

Spanish Civil War Tour Time!

Part of why I was hanging out for so long at Plaza Mayor is that this is where our tour would start.

That is our Tour Guide, Mark Connolly, holding the red umbrella. Mark hales from Dublin, Ireland and was very passionate, energetic and knowledgable about this provacative subject.

While focusing primarily on the Battle of Madrid, he really did a fine job teaching us about the root causes of the conflicts, the military history, brutality and long term ramification of the four year struggle.

Spain's first Socialist Party was founded

at this very restaurant in the 1870s

They serve great cod as well.

A Memorial to the Fallen

The Temple de Debod

This Egyptian temple had nothing to do with the Spanish Civil War but we passed by it as we walked.

It was a gift to Spanish government from Egypt in thanks for Franco's financial help with the Aswan Dam project in 1968.

The dam would have destroyed the temple so it was easy for the Egyptians to give it away.

A very simple Civil War Monument

Made from rubble from the Battle of Madrid, it was made nondescript on purpose so that neither side claims it as theirs.

Even today, 73 years after the war's end, the Civil War is still a very sore subject with Spaniards. We even had a few passer byes chime in with their 2 Euros worth when they realized the tour's topic.

A Pill Box by University City

The pictures that Mark showed us of this area at the end of the hostilities looked like Hiroshima without the afterglow.

Today's Home of Spain's Air Force

The Republicans used this building as a prison during the Civil War. About 2,000 of Franco's Nationalist were housed here and were due to be shipped to Valencia but once at Madrid's Barajas Airport they were summarily shot by their Republican guards and placed in a mass grave.

An estimated 238,000+ men and women faced similar summary executions at the hands of the troops on both sides.

An army officer on the pro-Catholic Nationalist side even infamously announcecd via a national radio broadcast that for every Republican you killed it would mean one less year in Purgatory.

That's my religion at its historical finest.

I know, I'll say five Hail Marys and an Our Father for that remark.

A scene from Men in Black?

After three intense hours, our tour ended here.

Awesome Tour!

Three of my English speaking Tour mates

The two ladies work together in London but are both friends from Toronto, Canada. When our Tour Guide mentioned the continuing Basque Separatist Movement it sent these two off in an anti-French Canadian Separatist rant.

Sorry St. Julie.

The young fellow is from Napa, California and attended Cardinal Newman H.S. the year they played Oaks Christian in the inaugural California State H.S. Football Bowl Game. His team lost a close won that they should have won. The Oaks Christian QB that season was Jimmy Clausen who this fellow hates with a passion to this very day in Madrid.

We bonded.

Well.

Don Quixote and Sancho Panza

at the Plaza de España

Maxibon

Maybe one of these would make St. Julie feel better.

SIDRA!!!

Almost back to my hotel, I stumbled upon this fine Asturian diner. My grandparents were from Spain's northern region of Asturias, so why not give it a whirl?

Sidra in the green bottle,

octopus to the left

Sidra is the adult beverage of choice for Asturianos. It's in my blood, no?

As seen in the previous picture, sidra must be poured from dizzying heights to let it breath.

I ordered one to go along with a fried meat tapas. I tipped the bartender 1 Euro and two seconds later he says here, finish the bottle.

International relations and all, what else could I do but say "Si, gracias!"

My first Sidra and Tapas

Fully lubricated and well fed, it was time to go to the hotel for a short nap before going to the BIG GAME.

Stay tuned for more on the Real Madrid-Levante game in the next blogpost.

Siesta time.

El Escorial, an LNFA Game and Pig's Ears

The plan for today was simple, use Spain's excellent light rail system to journey first to the city of El Escorial, about 30 miles northwest of Madrid, to see their famed Monasterio de San Lorenzo. From there, board another train and travel another hour farther northwest to visit the walled city of Avila to see that great relic, St. Teresa's finger!

I was up early and boarded the Metro to start the day at about 7:00 a.m. On my walk to the Puerta del Sol Metro stop, I passed several eating/drinking establishments that were still going strong from Friday night's revelry.

Apparently, there is nothing like a caña (beer) to start your morning.

Financial Saver

I am a big believer in European public transportation systems and Madrid's is one of the best.

So far I have spent about $25 on all of my Metro/Train rides. When you consider that gasoline in Madrid costs about $10/gallon, it is easy to see how cost effective it is to go this route.

Neat, clean Metro stop

Miss your train, no problem, the next one will come in about three minutes.

The ride to El Escorial was smooth and pleasant. Once there, it was another 20 minute walk uphill to the Monasterio. It was an hour until this site opened so I opted to shun the 1 Euro bus ride and get some much needed exercise.

I should have paid the Euro.

Interesting Ivy Leaves

See, I would have missed these on the bus ride!

I should have paid the Euro.

Monasterio de San Lorenzo

de El Escorial

Viewed from the outside, it is a huge and foreboding structure giving no real hint of the treasures within.

Cafe Con Leche

I had about half an hour to kill before the Monasterio opened so I parked myself in a café and had my first CCL of the day, it would not be my last. Couple this with a grilled croissant and a zumo de naranja and I was king of the world!

Monasterio Gardens

My early start made me the day's first visitor to the Monasterio, thus I was able to breeze through it at a good pace without tour groups getting in the way.

My plan is working.

This was my third straight visit to a Spanish site that does not allow pictures inside and I continue to follow the rules.

"Why" you ask?

Do you remember that it was the Spanish Inquisition by any chance?

Enough said.

Now, as for the Monasterio (more commonly referred to as simply El Escorial), it was GLORIOUS!

Building took place from 1562-1584 during the reign of the very Catholic King Phillip II. Construction completely dominated the Spanish economy during this time. It was built as a sign of Caholic power during the time of the Counter-Reformation's struggle against the new wave of Protestant "heretics."

There were several highlights for me with the first being the Hall of Battles that measured 55 meters long and seven meters high. I loved the entire hall long wall painting of the Spanish victory over the French at the Battle of San Quentin in 1557 on the feast day of San Lorenzo thus El Escorial's dedication to him.

The Royal Pantheon houses the remains of 26 Spanish Kings and Queens stretching back over 400 years. An interesting side note is that El Escorial has a "rotting room" where a Royal corpse was kept to fully decompose for about ten years berfore their bones were placed in this room.

No, we did not get to visit the rotting room.

Finally the Basilica and the Biblioteca were the last two, and probably the best, stops on the two hour tour.

GLORIOUS!

My perfectly executed plan then hit a snag.

I walked downhill easily back to the train station. It was about 12:45 and I was thrown for a loss when I found out that the next train to Avila did not depart until 4:45.

I needed a Plan B.

Osos Rivas Helmet

I decided to be adventuresome and returned to Madrid. I knew that the Osos had a home game at 4:00 but I had a problem.

About a week ago via EuroPlayers.com, I sent messages to three people listed on the Osos' web page as their Head Coach, Atletic Director and Recruitor respectively. The message was simple, I introduced myself, said that I would be in Madrid this weekend and only wanted directions on how to get to their stadium.

Three requests for help, no answers.

I dropped the subject because of my planned Avila trip and the lack of response from the team's dignitaries. My Plan B meant that I would have to improvise since I had no clear intel on the stadium's exact location.

Rivas is a large suburb to the southwest of Madrid. It is actually one stop outside of my inner Madrid City Metro pass's power and has three Metro stops in the city.

What to do? Ask for help from fellow Metro riders of course.

I started with the couple standing next to me on the Metro, they were both getting off way before Rivas but gave me all sorts of good advice. The lady then starting asking other passengers if they could help me. Another generous woman gave me counsel. Then a young man stepped in, so passionate to help me that he forgot to get off at his stop.

Eventually, all of their aid got me to get off at the first Rivas stop where more Good Samaritans guided me to the last ten minute walk to the stadium, a full 30 minutes before kickoff.

Plan B worked like a charm! Thank goodness that I had written the name of the stadium down in my Rick Steves' Travel Book a few weeks ago.

Let's set up the game . . .

Elite LNFA XVIII

Sueca Ricers (0-2)

vs.

Osos Rivas (2-0)

at

Estadio Atletismo

Cerro del Telegrafo

LNFA stands for Liga Nacional de Futbol Americano. The Elite division is composed of Spain's top six teams.

Sueca is a suburb of Valencia that is big on growing rice hence the nickname. Ever heard of Paella Valenciana? Thanks to Daniel Castañon and Mike Contreras for these two insights.

The Ricers had been outscored 89-26 in their two losses while the Osos were rolling to a perfect start by a margin of 34-12.

The game looked like a mismatch on paper and it would be on the field as well.

Rivas suited up 33 players while only 20 Ricers made the long trip from the coastal city of Valencia. By game's end only 16 Sueca players were left standing.

Besides this numerical advantage, the Osos were just simply overpowering in both lines.

This was my first chance to finally take pictures at a site/event so away I went!

Good thing: The game was free.

Bad things: No concessions, no programs and a wind chill factor not in my favor.

How cold is Thun again?

Osos Rivas warming up

Sueca Ricers Reach Blocking Drill

Snazzy Osos Uniforms

Pass Blocking Footwork Drills

Artificial Turf for Soccer

Chalk lines were needed for the other type of futbol field.

Waming up the Shotgun Snap

"Oh, you mean you wanted a straight line?"

Pre-Game Document Check

Often the referees before the start of action will check the players vs. the roster to make sure no unlicensed athletes are trying to pull a fast one.

Here the refs are also checking the type of cleats that #62 is wearing.

Osos Kick Off the game

Bomb by Sueca

Incomplete.

This happened a lot.

The Trenches

As noted earlier, most of these battles were won by the red team.

After one quarter, the Osos led easily 16-0 thanks to a passing TD, a running TD, two extra points and a QB Sack for a Safety.

Ricer QB forced to scramble again

Lefty was harassed all day long.

The QB was also the Punter

The second period was scoreless, so the Osos maintained a 16-0 lead at intermission.

Nice throw

Good Catch

Rivas shifty RB

He would score two TDs on the day.

Open in the flat

Rivas Cheerleaders

TD Grab

After the third period, Rivas now led 22-0 thanks to another rushing TD by #6, the PAT was wide left.

Kick Off Return after a Safety

The Osos defense scored a second Safety in the fourth quarter and returned an interception for a Pick 6 in the final stanza as well.

He's loose again!

Watch Out Cameraman!!!

Sueca having a little success on the ground

Another Osos QB Sack

Too many of these to be competitive.

Osos Mauling

What Rivas lacked in technique, note the O-Line's pad level, they made uop in sheer bulk and power.

Sueca Interception

A Ricer positive.

CRUNCH!

Rivas DB driving through his man

Osos Swarm

Ricers' 50 yard completion

Easily their best play of the day but they lost a fumble on the next play deep in the Osos' Red Zone.

Football Ballet

Rivas QB scrambling

Dying Cockroach Block

The Osos linemen did this quite often to the Ricers D-Line.

The final was Osos 31- Ricers 0.

I did get to see an oddity at the end of the game that I should mention. On second down the Ricer's QB was almost sacked for a third safety by the Osos but forward progress was marked at the half yard line. On third down the Ricers quick kicked . . . good strategy!

At 3-0, the Osos are alone at the top of the Elite LNFA XVIII while the Ricers are the only winless team in the league.

Back on the Metro, it was time to eat.

Tasca La Oreja de Jaime

Good looking litle place off of Puerta del Sol with lots of people in it, so I gave it a try

Patatas Bravas

Fried potatoes with a delicious spicy sauce.

Sautéed Pigs Ears

Oreja means ear, it was the House Specialty, so in the spirit of all of those cooking shows that I watch I had to give it a try.

They were delicious thanks to the sauce and crunchy, ears are cartilage afterall.

The bread helped.

On my off-beat food tasting in Europe adventures, I rate the delicacies that I have tried as follows:

1A. Spaghetti al Nero - Sicily

1B. Horsemeat - Sicily

3. Pigs Ears - Spain

4. Haggis - Scotland

5. Octopus Heads - Sicily

6. Spleen Sandwich - Sicily

Swedish food was just good and, thankfully, not made on a dare.

It was now about 10:00 p.m., the cold streets of Madrid were teeming with people including several young girls in mini-skirts and one walking barefoot.

While the streets were alive, I was not. It was time to call it a day.

I ate pig's ears.