Coaching for Pizza: The Road Trip to Cremona

Wednesday, 13 February, 2019

I have been living in Varese for 27 days now and have still not taken a major road trip, that is until today.

But before talking about today's long, protracted journey . . .

I want to go see

this game in Germany!

The Allgäu Comets play in Germany's DI, considered by most in the known to be the best American football league in Europe. In 2019, the Comets are led by Arizona high school coaching legend Jeff Scurran.

The Polar Bears, great mascot by the way, play in the NCAA's DIII which allows for this type of Spring game experience to DIII colleges once every few years.

What a great and interesting experience for everyone involved!

Back to life on the road . . .

I have mentioned that this year, for the first time, I am relying on Fred Plotkin's book Italy for the Gourmet Traveler for some of my journey and dining plans.

In his thick tome, Plotkin breaks down Italy by each of its 21 regions. Varese is in the region of Lombardia and my Skorpions have provided me with a Travel Pass that is good for all modes of public transportation in the entire region.

Thus, my thought is to fully explore Lombardia's many interesting cities and try out as many of Plotkin's recommended, outstanding dining spots as possible.

When Plotkin discusses a region he designates one of that area's wonderful cities as being its Classic Town. In Plotkin's opinion, each Classic Town ". . . gathers within its walls much that embodies the character, history and gastronomic personality of the region."

Cremona is Lombardia's Classic Town

according to Fred Plotkin

That's a nice non-PETA approved green fur coat at the train station if you ask me.

As the crow flies, Cremona is only a mere 77 miles to the southeast. It should be easy to get there, no?

The stately, old Cremona Train Station

To cover these 77 miles by public transportation cost me only one thing . . . time.

The trek started when I boarded the 7:24 a.m., C line bus to the Varese train station in time to catch the express train to Milan's Cadorna Train Station.

Once in Milan, I needed to board the M2 Metro Green line for the ride to Milan's historic Central Station. Then, I had a minor dilemma, do I take the slower, 90 minute 9:20 a.m. train that involved one change of trains that would eventually drop me off in Cremona at 10:50 a.m. or wait for the direct train leaving at 10:20 a.m. arriving in Cremona in just over an hour at 11:28 a.m.?

I opted for the slower, early train that would arrive in Cremona 38 minutes sooner to today's Classic Town.

I had to change trains in the city of Codogno. My train from Milan would arrive in Codogno at 10:04 a.m. and my new train to Cremona was scheduled to leave at 10:10 a.m.

I only had a six minute window to change trains and as our train pulled into Codogna we were five minutes late. Could I make the connection?

No problem as my new train to Cremona was ten minutes late in departing.

Even though we left Codogna ten minutes later than scheduled, we still arrived in Cremona on time at 10:50 a.m.

Go figure, I love the Italian train system!

A Tribute to Italian Hero

Giuseppe Garibaldi

outside the Cremona Train Station

A huge violin which makes

perfect sense . . .

You see, Cremona, population 71,200 musical souls, is best known internationally for making the world's best violins.

As you will see, Cremona also boasts of some amazing medieval architecture and food to die for!

Unfortunately, Cremona has its dangerous

MEAN STREETS!

Yet another non-PETA approved

green fur coat on parade

And a brown one too . . .

Cremona's City Crest

ALL of Lombardia loves

yellow buildings

One of many Cremona violin

themed statues amid the city's

HUGE Wednesday street market

I'm guessing this red has something

to do with Valentine's Day tomorrow

An oblique view of Cremona's

Duomo and Bell Tower

Construction on the Duomo commenced in 1107 A.D. and finished 83 years later in 1190 A.D.

The Bell Tower, known locally as the Torrazzo, took 38 years to build and was completed in 1305 A.D.

The Torrazzo is 112 meters (368 feet) in height making it Europe's tallest brick bell tower.

A goofy looking lion protecting

the Duomo's Baptistry

A better view of the

Duomo's exterior

The Torrazzo has a fine

astronomical clock facing the

Piazza del Commune

Duomo close-up

Did I mention that Cremona has

some amazing medieval architecture?

Another lion, this time

at the Duomo's door

The Duomo's monumental interior

Ornate details were everywhere

Great frescoes were proudly

displayed throughout the Duomo

Interesting lamp

One BIG painting

Just a minor side chapel

The Life of Christ

A close-up of the Crucifixion scene

Just another modest side chapel

Vaulted ceilings always catch my eye

Cremona's Duomo was well worth the visit but I was getting hungry.

A bold statue that incorporates

the Cremona City Crest

Well, it is Valentine's Day

on Thursday

It just kept catching my eye

A Luthier (Violin Maker) hard at work

There are still lutheir shops all over the city producing fine violins.

Cremona was the home town of famed Italian luthier Antonio Stradivari (1644-1737).

Beautiful violins are on display

in virtually every store window

See what I mean?

The street market was

still in full force . . .

. . . and I was getting hungrier

The view of the back side

of the Duomo

More stringed instruments

I should really have lunch first

I felt about as famished as this lion

about to gnaw on this woman's leg

EUREKA!

I have found it!
The Hosteria '700
Piazza Gallina 1, Cremona 26100
Telephone 03-723-6175

Just a few more steps to one of Fred Plotkin's recommended dining spots in Cremona. The fact that my Lonely Planet guide named it as Cremona's best dining spot cinched the deal!

The outside looks dilapidated . . .

. . . but inside, the Hosteria '700 is

a sparkling gem

Grappa

Danger! DANGER!! DANGER!!!

The Hosteria '700's ceiling

The bread was wonderful . . .

. . . but the Marubini pasta dish was

AMAZING!

It was cooked in three broths and came in a rich butter sauce.

It was, oh so good for me too!

Not sure what Spanish graffiti was

doing in Lombardia

More of Cremona's colorful streets

Side view of an urn in

Piazza Roma

Same urn, different view

He was a politician who spearheaded

the Italian revolutionary movement

Always with the naked women

in European art forms

Another Piazza Roma urn

Amilcare Ponchielli

Italian Opera Composer

Sperlari

Famed for their classic torrone dessert that they first produced in 1836, they were closed for lunch until 3:30 p.m.

Unfortunately, that was the same time that my train was scheduled to leave Cremona for Milan.

DAMN, their torrone looked good

Candy? On Valentine's Day?

Who would have guessed?

I LOVE CIOCCOLATO!

Just a random arcade

I liked painting of the man admiring

his glass of wine hanging in this bar

In Cremona, a trip here is

MANDATORY

"The Soul of Music"

There were many great violins and

other stringed instrument on display

This one was made by the master luthier

Antonio Stradivari in 1669 in Cremona

It was an interesting museum with lots

of information about the luthier's process

AS high school gymnasium

I wonder what was originally

in this circle?

This red crest just caught my eye

Outside the Chiesa di Sant'Agostina

Hmmm . . .

The Chiesa di Sant'Agata has . . .

. . . a nice baptismal font

What is that atop that building?

. . . oh, Flying Dragons, of course

Chiesa di San Luca

Back at the Cremona Train Station

The express train to Milan leaves in just 14 minutes.

The Old School chalkboard that listed

departure information for the train station

No longer in use as technology has taken over this important job, I was glad that they had not removed these nostalgic items throughout the building.

Once in Milano Centrale Train Station, I opted to go to its huge La Feltrinelli book store to see if they had any interesting English language titles.