Horse Manure

Final thoughts from a Thursday night in Villar de Mazarife. . .

We had lots of rain in the late afternoon and evening making today's walk iffy.

Ste. Jaime is one of THE most patient people I've ever met, I wish I was more like her in that department.

Ste. Julie officially declared that she is an ice cream addict. . . as if we didn't already know that.

Julian, the curator of the local church is a great guy as is Jesús, no not that one, the one who runs our albergue.

I added graffiti to the wall of our bedroom, "Spanish Soaps Rock!" Well they do, the fact that I'd been sniffing my newest bar of Spanish soap for five minutes had nothing to do with it.

STAGE 22

Villar de Mazarife to Astorga

30.1 km/18.7 miles

Time Walked, 6:19. . . I know

Total Distance Walked, 525.2 km/326.4 miles

Total Time Walked, 126:18

22 Nights in Albergues, 123 Euros

Distance to Santiago de Compostela

273.4 km/169.9 miles

I decided to be Ruthless on the Camino today, so I took off by my myself at 7:06 a.m. with the intent of finishing in Astorga, population 12,000, ASAP! Overcast skies but no rain and cool temperatures really helped today.

Lots of random thoughts on the Camino today. . .

Are there any French people in France? They seem to all be on the Camino.

If I had the concession to sell canes to Spaniards over 60 and under 5 foot 4 inches, I'd be a millionaire many times over today.

No one has ever died in Spain due to any sort of stress related illnesses. Even the roosters only start to crow three hours after the sun has already come up.

Horse manure, if you love that aroma, you would have loved today's walk. We are now back into farming country, lots of corn and some vineyards. Every few miles you find a pile of horse manure about five feet high, five feet wide and 20 feet long. I love the smell of horse dung in the morning!

I met a man and his wife walking the Camino today who started in León. Nothing unusual about that except that they are traveling with their 15 month old daughter in an umbrella stroller. That stroller will not survive old Roman roads.

I'm staying at an albergue near the Cathedral and away from my four beloved saints and Ruth for one night. I need a little mental breathing space but hope to hook up with them again on Saturday.

Hey, 22 days down and only 11 to go! I celebrated this passing of the 2/3rds of the Camino milestone by treating myself to a Japanese massage in the albergue performed by a genuine Japanese woman, it was so decadent!

After the massage it was time to explore Astorga's Cathedral (a solid "B"), the Bishop's Palace designed by Gaudi in 1891 (an "A-", great inside, not quite ready to bust out in true Gaudi style yet exterior) and the Chocolate Factory (OK but the actual chocolate was much better).

I am becoming a pineapple-coconut juice addict, so good after a walk in the countryside!

The Camino pain is now residing in my lower back, we'll see where it goes tomorrow.

Vamos Bien!

BUEN CAMINO!!!