After a great night’s sleep in my inexpensive
hotel, New Year’s Eve, or Noche Vieja as it is known in España, started in Valencia but would
end back home in Murcia with friends.
As I
started the last day of 2014 with a typical walk in search of breakfast, I came
across this incredibly stunning news . . .
were being sold?!?!
I’ve only
been away from Murcia for a day but the Cobras’ General Manager has apparently
opted to sell our starting center, Tanque, and one of our defensive backs I
believe, Montadito, for the staggering sum of 2.95 million Euros.
It is the sports news all over the streets of
Valencia.
I’m
against this move.
After a
good café con leche helped me get through this shocking roster change notice, I
boarded the #35 autobus to view Valencia’s aesthetically stunning . . .
This City
of Arts and Sciences complex is mostly the work of world-famous, Valencian born
architect Santiago Calatrava. His is a decidedly different style from the
buildings that we saw yesterday in Valencia’s historic core.
Calatrava’s
work is somewhat controversial for many of the locals. Some Valencians complain that
it was too expensive to build and that various design flaws have necessitated
major repair costs, as we’ll soon see.
I did not
have the time to visit any of the museums and exhibits in the complex and,
instead simply strolled around it taking, surprise,
a lot of pictures.
Still, I
found it awe inspiring, how about you?
The Ágora
Museo da las Ciencias Principe Felipe
Its “shell
shimmering with translucent mosaic tiles” as my Lonely Planet Guide Book noted
were nowhere to be seen.
The shell was under repair making several Valencian tax payers happy this Noche
Vieja, I’m sure.
Back on
the #35 autobus for the return to the city’s core, I had a mission to
accomplish.
Horchatería de Santa Catalina
You may
recall from yesterday’s post that we passed the 200+ year-old Horchatería de Santa
Catalina late in the evening after it had just closed for the night. It is
located at Plaza Santa Catalina 6.
My guide
book mentioned that this horchatería is one of the two traditionally great
places in Valencia to enjoy this refreshing beverage with a fartón or two.
The other
horchatería you ask? Why it is the Horchatería el Siglo located right across
the way at Plaza Santa Catalina 11!
Only one
thing to do in this case . . .
CONTRAST
AND COMPARE!
The view from my seat at the
Horchatería de Santa Catalina
Both the
horchata and the two fartóns that I dipped in the horchata were incredibly
good, way better than the offering yesterday in the Mercado Central.
After
paying the modest cuenta, I ambled
across the narrow street to compare horchata.
What the HELL?
It turned
out that the Horchatería el Siglo closed very early on this Noche Vieja.
Thus, I
declared Horchatería de Santa Catalina the winner because, just like great
offensive linemen, they outwork their opponents in anonymity.
Random Church Tower
It stands
between the two warring horchaterías and I’m sure that a Pope or two has had to
meet inside this church with the two horchatería owners over the years to help
settle disputes, much like Pope Francis did recently with the USA and
Cuba.
It was
time to slowly work my way to
Valencia’s Estació del Nord for the 3 ½ hour train ride back to Murcia. I still
had time to try a tapa or two and see a few more sights.
Ice Skating on the
Plaza del Ayuntamiento
That’s
about $120 USD for a soccer jersey, a bit rich for my blood.
Valencia’s Main Post Office
Manolo Montoliv
He died
in the arena.
The Plaza
de Toros was open with a nice museum and freedom to roam throughout this
Spanish cultural treasure.
Yes, I
like bullfighting.
The Museum
Matadors from Long Ago
The Matadors “Suit of Lights”
These are
used only for the grand entry procession that starts each fiesta brava's corrida.
Not Real
Well, not
real anymore at least, thank goodness.
Brands of various Ganaderías
A
ganadería is the ranch where fighting bulls are raised. They each have their own
distinctive brands and colors.
Corrida Scene
That
reminds me, you better buy stock in Spanish fan making companies soon. I
predict a big spike in sales once Laurie arrives in Murcia.
Manolete
The best bull fighter ever
At least
my Father and Grandfather always told me so as a youngster. Manolete died at the age of thirty on 29 August, 1947 after being gored by a Miura bull named Islero in the Plaza de Toros in Linares,
Spain. I was about seven weeks old at the time.
Upon
hearing of Manolete’s death, Spain’s dictator, Generalissimo Francisco Franco,
ordered three days of national mourning during which time only funeral dirges
were heard on the radio.
Repúblicanos Rallying in 1931
Valencia’s
Plaza de Toros holds 12,884 aficionados for a corrida. On this day, it held
considerably more in this city that was a stronghold for Repúblicanos during the
Spanish Civil War (1936-39).
I’m sure
that the memory of this rally did not sit well with the Generalissimo after the
Civil War was over.
Old Corrida Poster from 1859
Valencia’s
Plaza de Toros was erected in 1841 and has, to be sure, undergone many
renovations over the years.
Ode to a Fallen Picador
These are
the men who enter the arena on horseback and perform the necessary job of
lancing the bull to weaken his neck muscles.
Again,
like great offensive linemen, they are under-appreciated but extremely
necessary to the success of the matador’s confrontation with the raging beast.
A Valencian Favorite
It
performed so well in the ring that it was granted an indulto, i.e., it was not killed in the arena. Instead, it was
taken back to the ganadería to be put out to stud.
That
seems like enough incentive to do well to me.
into the Arena
The Plaza de Toros
Not for
big people, its thin opening offers a place to slide through if the bull gets a
little too close for comfort.
The
Callejon is the passageway created between the arena’s Barrera (inner wall) and
the stands. The Callejon is where some stand waiting for their turn to face
the bull and also for people who are not participating in the corrida such as
the press, breeders and doctors.
Occasionally
a bull will jump over the Barrera and into the Callejon creating lots of
immediate stress, thus the need for the Burladero de Callejon.
Me in the Arena
Discoverer of Penicillin
Many of
the Bull Rings that I have visited in Spain over the years have similar
monuments to this great Scottish man of medicine. His revolutionary discovery of
penicillin in 1928 has greatly improved the survival rates of gored matadors,
banderilleros and picadors over the years.
Thus, the
entire bull fighting world is grateful to the good doctor.
Bull Coming Out of Chute #1
It was QB
Norm van Brocklin’s number with the Los Angeles Rams back in the 1950s.
The Plaza’s Exterior
One of Valencia’s Beloved Matadors
Once out
of the arena, I still had about an hour to use wisely, i.e., discover and eat.
Valencia Oranges
A law eliminating rent controls in Spain was passed in 1995, gave people 20 years to prepare for its enactment. This law goes into effect
on 1 January, 2015.
Small
business owners like Filiberto Leon may be in deep trouble.
With
that, I was back on the train and headed to Murcia to join my friends Oscar and
Rosa for a Noche Vieja dinner as we rang in the New Year.
Parrillada Argentina
Oscar is
originally from Argentina and selected this excellent little spot near their
home.
YUM!!!
Beef,
pork, chicken . . .
Beef,
pork, chicken . . .
Beef,
pork, chicken . . .
ALL YOU CAN EAT!
Oh, I had
some salad too.
Angel
Our Hard Working Host
It was SO
good!!!
We have GOT to get Angel
to open a branch in California
After
this sumptuous repast, it was back to Oscar and Rosa’s to await the New Year on TYV with 50,000 of our closest amigos at Mardrid’s Puerta del Sol.
Oscar and Rosa
Madcaps Living in the Moment
Eating one of 12 Uvas
A Spanish
Noche Vieja tradition is eating 12 grapes or uvas at midnight, one on each ring
of the clock’s bell for good luck in the coming year.
Who am I
to fight tradition?
Living La Vida Loca
It was a
very nice way to welcome the New Year, GRACIAS Oscar and Rosa!
MUSICA y RITMO!!!
On the early morning walk back to La Hacienda, there were still revelers of all ages on Plaza Santo Domingo.
Los Reyes Magos at work?
Upon returning to La Hacienda after my visit to Valencia, I discovered some amazing improvements in my creature comforts.
Military Band Concert
I had a TV that now worked! As a matter of fact, I’ve been listening to a formally dressed Spanish military band in concert playing several traditional Spanish songs and yuletide favorites. As with France in 2012, about 95% of all the Christmas music that one hears is in English.
But the wonder did not stop there! All of my light fixtures now worked!
And last, but far from least, my internet connection was working!!!!!!!!
I am whole again.
The only possible explanation for this events happening was an early, unexpected visit by the Three Wise Men (Los Reyes Magos in Spanish) who are scheduled to leave children presents on 6 January.
Or maybe Roberto and Courier had something to do with it.
FELIZ AÑO NUEVO
EVERYBODY!!!
And now for an afternoon of Spanish telenovelas . . .
2 comments:
I think you need a Suit of Lights as your game-day coaching attire.
David,
NOW YOUR TALKING!!!
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